Jono Clarke on The G Man loves my pink bits (M7). Photo by Daniel Joll
Dry tooling in the wakatipu
Currently there are two established dry tooling crags in Queenstown. Both of these are located at the Kelvin Heights end of the Kelvin Heights - Jacks Point Trail. When walking from Kelvin Heights the first crag you come across is the Den of Iniquity. It is on the right hand side of the trail as you walk towards Jacks Point overlooking the lake. The top of this crag can be seen when you're standing at the second of the green bench seats. As seen below. It takes arounds ten minutes to reach the Den. Look for the climbers trail on the right hand side of the crag. Follow this down over a short rock step to the base of the crag. GPS coordinates S 45deg 03.145 , E 168 deg 41.950
the den of iniquity
All routes have perma draws and clip through anchors. You need one quick draw for the first bolt on Chuck it in bro. There is still come loose rock here so bring a helmet and position your belayer accordingly. Please do not chip or drill any additional holds at this crag. Most of the routes are mainly natural holds with the odd rock climbing move thrown in. The first three climbs have also been rock climbed the grades being 19, 21, 23.
The routes from left to right:
1) Chuck it in bro (M4+) 4 bolts 2) The Inseminator (M5) 5 bolts 3) Man boy love (M6) 7 bolts 4) Awesome Foursome (M8+) 7 bolts 5) A gentleman of disrepute (M8) 4 bolts.
the pink palace
The Pink Palace was the original dry tooling crag in Queenstown. It is located approx 20 minutes along the Kelvin Heights / Jacks Point trail. It is on the left hand side of the trail and hidden behind a group of trees. Look out for the pink dot on the rock that marks the entrance to the palace. Head up towards the pink dot and then move right. The rock at the pink palace is loose, bring a helmet. All routes have perma draws and lower off anchors. The Pink Palace is quite steep and stays dry in most weather.
Routes described from left to right:
1) Sink the Pink (M7) 5 bolts 2) The G man loves my pink bits (M7) 5 bolts 3) Rub it till it's pink (M6) 5 bolts 4) Pink Panther (M3) 2 bolts 5) Pleasure palace (M5) 3 bolts 6) Little pink holes (M5) 3 bolts
There is also a great ground level traverse "Circumnavigating the pink" climbing from either direction. It is somewhere around M7ish and 25m long. A spotter and bouldering pad are handy for this. Linking the traverse into any of the routes is a good way to get a better work out.
Thanks to Daniel Joll for the dry tooling beta.